Douglas A-4M Skyhawk II
Magic Factory (5002)
1:48

The Douglas A-4 Skyhawk is a single-seat subsonic carrier-capable light attack aircraft designed and produced by the American aerospace manufacturer Douglas Aircraft Company, and later, McDonnell Douglas. It was originally designated A4D under the United States Navy's pre-1962 designation system.

The Skyhawk has seen active combat on several occasions. The U.S. Navy operated the type as its principal light attack aircraft during the Vietnam War, carrying out some of the first air strikes by the U.S. during the conflict. The Skyhawk was the Israeli Air Force's main ground attack aircraft during both the War of Attrition and the Yom Kippur War. In the Falklands War, Argentine Air Force Skyhawks bombed Royal Navy vessels, sinking the Type 42 destroyer Coventry and the Type 21 frigate Ardent. Kuwaiti Air Force Skyhawks saw action during Operation Desert Storm. In 2022, nearly seven decades after the aircraft's first flight in 1954, a number of Skyhawks remain in service with the Argentine Air Force and the Brazilian Naval Aviation.

Designed specifically for use by the U.S. Marine Corps, the A-4M improvements included the 11,200 lb thrust Pratt & Whitney J52-P408 engine; a smokeless burner can; a larger, increased-visibility canopy; a ribbon-type drag chute; and a repositioned IFF antenna atop a squared-off vertical fin. With Douglas test pilot Walt Harper at the controls, the first A-4M flight took place on April 10, 1970, at the Douglas Palmdale, California facility. Fleet introduction began on February 26, 1971, to VMA-324 at MCAS Yuma, AZ. Subsequent improvements in a majority of the A-4Ms included "heads-up" cockpit instrumentation; integrated weapons display & delivery systems; "laser spot" target acquisition; tracking; advanced ECM & defensive ECM; and a new electrical generator.

Ironically, the A-4M was the only Skyhawk version, other than the A-4A, to not see combat. The A-4M first entered service in 1971 as the Vietnam War was grinding to a halt and left front line service in February 1990 prior to the Gulf War. However, foreign versions of the A-4M did see combat in the Middle East. These were the Israeli A-4Ns and the Kuwaiti A-4KUs. Marine A-4Ms stayed forward-deployed in Japan throughout their active service life in readiness for a war that never was.

For a 1/48 Skyhawk (which is certainly not a big model) the Magic Factory box is quite large and very full of parts. No less than 24 sprues are provided and these include weapons, main airframe, clear and rubber/vinyl parts. As this is a so-called "2 in 1" boxing, you could be forgiven for thinking you get two full kits, much like their initial F4U-1 Corsair box, but this is not the case. The 2 in 1 refers to the fact that you get all the parts needed to build one of two variants of the A-4M, an early or late, not both.

It actually looks to me that all the parts are also included in the box to build an A-4M with the Hughes Angle/Rate Bombing System (ARBS) installed, featuring both a television camera and a laser spot tracing system in the tip of the nose, to provide for acquisition and tracking of laser-designated targets. Obviously no decal options are included for such a variant, so I imagine we will see further boxings in the future.

In addition to the kits plastic parts, several extra items are included in the purchase price including pre-cut masks for the canopy/windshield and for the nose anti-glare panel. A small photo-etch fret provided 6 detail pieces to be used during assembly. You also get a nice metal pitot tube (positioned on the vertical tail) and some self adhesive reflective faces for the canopy rear-view mirrors.

It's been a while since I have seen new kits being released with vinyl/rubber parts, especially for tires. I had hoped that kit manufacturers had gotten this particular bug out of their system, but it seems not. On the vinyl sprue you get a set of belts for the seat, and this actually is not that bad an idea. The rubber tires are where I find myself wishing they had given us normal plastic tires and perhaps thrown in the vinyl for those who might use this as an option. I've never had much success with vinyl tires and will be swapping these out for a more traditional solution but more on this later in the build when we get to assembly.

This kit is also the first time I have seen small lead beads included for the nose weight. As you can see there are very few provided and I'm not convinced it would be enough to hold the nose down. The final inclusion is a double-sided A2 full color gloss foldout sheet which details the painting and decaling for the two provided color schemes. The 16 page assembly booklet is printed in black and white and seems quite thorough and well laid out.

Magic Factory seem to have been quite particular in their selection of paint/markings for this kit. At first glance you would not think so but upon digging a bit deeper you realise that they have cleverly selected both the very first and last operational A-4M aircraft, effectively allowing modellers to bookend the entire USMC career of the A-4M. This appeals to me and I think it's a great idea.

The first scheme represents BuNo. 158148 which was the first A-4M built. It is shown here in a black and white paint scheme while flown by the Naval Weapons Evaluation Facility on February 21, 1975. The Naval Air Test Center's insignia is on the fuselage. The black and white colors were reversed on the opposite side.

The second scheme represents aircraft BuNo. 160024 "Double Nuts", an A-4M from Marine Attack Squadron 131 (VMA-131) Diamondbacks, which was singled out to receive a special hi-viz paint scheme to commemorate the retirement of the last US Marine A-4. On 22 June 1994 the squadron officially retired its last A-4M aircraft and the markings provided by Magic Factory are designed to match this final retirement scheme. Check out this informative article by Dave Aungst for more details on the A-4M 160024 Retirement Re-Painting.

When it comes to the decal sheet, Magic Factory have certainly not cut any corners. Printed by Cartograph, the artwork, colors and clarity of the decals are excellent. I fully expect that these will work perfectly when it comes time to apply to the model. Worthy of mention are the cockpit main IP and side console decals as these are some of the nicest I have seen provided in a kit sheet.

My builds almost never follow the assembly sequence outlined in the kit instructions. Instead, I prefer to jump around, focusing first on areas that might need extra attention or could pose potential problems later on. By addressing these challenges early, I can avoid complications as the build progresses. However, to make it easier for readers to follow along, I reorganize my build articles into a more logical, step-by-step format. In this case, I'll be sticking closely to the sequence provided by Magic Factory, ensuring the process is clear and methodical for anyone following this guide.

Kicking off in the cockpit, the kit seat is one of the more detailed I have seen out-of-the-box. One of the major things lacking from most kit seats are of course the harness belts. Magic Factory have employed a little "outside the square" thinking and provided vinyl/rubber seat belts.

The black vinyl belts are glued using CA into pre-cut slots on the bottom of the seat cushions. The flexible belts are then bent around the side of the cushion and secured on top as desired. This is a pretty clever idea and seems to work very well in practice. To my eye the belts are probably a bit overscale for 1/48 but it's a much better option than having no belts at all (or even PE belts).

The A-4 Skyhawk family used the ESCAPAC series of ejection seats by Douglas Aircraft. These are one of the most significant American designed/manufactured seats with Escapacs being fitted to many U.S. Navy aircraft including the A-4 Skyhawk, the A-7 Corsair II, and the S-3 Viking. The A-4F and later variants (including the M) were fitted with the Escapac IG-3 seat.

The assembled Magic Factory kit provides a reasonable likeness to the Douglas Escapac. The most noticeable omission on the MF seat is the main seat safety handle, located in the center of the headrest (nicknamed 'headnocker'). This locks both the primary and secondary handles and the Quickboost seat shows this is in the safe (down) position. The Magic Factory seat also looks a bit thin and lacks some of the smaller details of the resin seat but these are small niggles and I feel that all in all the kit seat is a good effort by MF.

In this 2-in-1 kit, Magic Factory includes specific parts depending on which A-4M variant (early or late) you wish to model. Starting in the cockpit this means you will need to decide very early on what your final scheme will be. As I'm building an early A-4M I'll focus mainly on those instructions (with the yellow border) as I go. Both early and late cockpit side consoles and main IP are provided, and even here you get more choices between flat decal-only parts (J10/F5) or raised molded detail parts (J11/F6).

It's particularly important to use the appropriate parts for your chosen variant, as there is considerable difference between the early (non HUD) and late (HUD with ARBS) cockpits. To my knowledge, Magic Factory are the first kit manufacturer to offer the early A-4M variant out-of-the-box.

For my build I opted to use the raised detail parts as these are so nicely done it would have been a pity to not use them, plus the flat decals just don't look very realistic to me. To prepare for detail painting I applied a coat of FS36231 Dark Gull Grey and then masked the sections which would not be then painted black.

Whilst considering how to approach the detail painting I took another look at the decals and decided that I would use them after all, but would fit them over the raised detail parts (J11/J5/J6) rather than place them on the flat parts (J10/D42/D43). For this to work you need a very strong decal softening solution which will coax the decals down into the raised detail. VMS Decal Softener is my weapon of choice for such jobs as its easily one of the strongest on the market.

The most challenging aspect of this process is accurately aligning the decal over the raised details, as it can be difficult to see the various dials and panels when laying it down. To tackle this issue, one effective method is to cut the larger decal into smaller sections and apply them individually. For the relatively straightforward side consoles, this involved removing the black edging and cutting the main decal in half. It’s important to note that you don’t need to cut all the way through the decal backing paper; a light incision with a sharp new blade will suffice to slice through the decal itself. This technique allows the sections to float apart easily on the backing paper when you apply water, making it much simpler to position each piece precisely where it needs to go.

The two decal parts are now applied onto the raised plastic parts and lined up with the details before generously applying the VMS Softener on top with a soft brush. From here the best thing you can do is leave everything alone, because the decal will quickly become very soft and any prodding or pulling will most likely result in a torn decal. Trust that the softener will do it's job and the decal will settle down around the raised detail by itself.

I applied a similar technique to the main instrument panel, carefully examining the raised plastic details before cutting the decal to optimize its positioning. This allowed me to effectively navigate around the taller components, which tend to distort the decal if placed over them. The method worked remarkably well, and after allowing the VMS Softener to work its magic overnight, the result was quite convincing. While a close inspection might reveal that the alignment isn't 100% perfect, it appears very effective to the naked eye—at least, that's my impression. While it may not quite measure up to a $30 Quinta or Red Fox 3D decal set, it comes impressively close, especially considering it’s all done with out-of-the-box materials.

Decals often dry with a slightly semi-gloss sheen and this can be fixed easily with a couple of light coats of Mr.COLOR Super Smooth Clear Flat (GX114). Of course we then need to re-instate the glass covers over the instrument dials and for this I find Mr.COLOR Super Clear III Gloss (GX100) hand brushes consistently.

The cockpit tub floor and the roof of the nose wheel well are connected and will be installed in the forward fuselage later as a single piece. I prefer to leave the seat out until the very end of the build, though that’s just my personal choice. Additionally, I usually paint the wheel wells toward the end, as it simplifies the masking process.

The kit's cockpit is impressively detailed right out of the box. The rear bulkhead (D41) includes the seat rails, and I especially appreciate the realistic reproduction of the acoustic fabric quilting on the side and rear walls of the cockpit. This is easily one of the best in-box cockpits I’ve encountered in a long time, so kudos to Magic Factory—there will be little need for aftermarket or scratch-built upgrades.

As with most USN/USMC aircraft of the '60s, the A-4 cockpit interior was finished in Dark Gull Grey FS36231. Virtually every paint manufacturer has this color in their range so you won't get stuck trying to match. I first sprayed a base coat of Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black followed by MRP-100 Dark Gull Grey

As we focus on the cockpit, it's worth highlighting an optional detail set from Magic Factory that can elevate your A-4M build. The 3D printed Pilots of A-4M (7510) set features two meticulously crafted 1:48 Skyhawk pilots, expertly posed to seamlessly fit into both the cockpit and the boarding ladder of the Magic Factory A-4M kit. This addition adds an impressive level of realism to your project.

The first figure is a seated pilot, visor down and oxygen mask in place, ready for action. He fits perfectly in the kit’s seat, with his hand naturally gripping both the stick and throttle, enhancing the sense of realism. The intricate detailing on the figure is superb, capturing the folds and textures of the flight suit with impressive precision. This figure will be especially appreciated by those looking to display their A-4M in an in-flight or taxiing pose, as it adds a dynamic, authentic touch to the overall presentation, making the scene feel more lifelike and immersive.

The second figure is a pilot carrying a gear bag while climbing the boarding ladder—a dynamic and engaging pose that adds a sense of action to the scene. Magic Factory has specifically designed this figure to work seamlessly with their boarding ladder, but it may also be compatible with other 1:48 Skyhawk kits, such as those from Hasegawa. The 3D-printed details on the flight suit are outstanding once again, capturing fine textures and realistic creases. I particularly appreciate the unique pose, which brings a fresh, lifelike element to the build, and I'll be using him to enhance the overall model.

Before joining the fuselage halves, some interior preparation is essential. First, glue the cockpit sidewalls (D58/D63) into place. If you intend to display the engine inspection panels in the open position, be sure to drill four 0.7mm holes for the door hinges and install parts D18 and D22. Additionally, don’t forget to install the interior components of the rear airbrakes at this stage; you can paint these parts beforehand if you prefer

As demonstrated in this RNZAF A-4K, the fabric quilting became quite worn over the aircraft's service life. Although this specific plane doesn’t appear worn out, it certainly conveys a sense of having been well-used and lived in.

To bring some aging to my cockpit sidewalls, a couple of light washes were applied to the sidewall detail. These are a custom mix of Dark Brown (87140) and Black (87131) from the enamel based Tamiya Panel Line Access Color range. The wash serves a dual purpose: it highlights the details while also giving them a grimy appearance.

Magic Factory has taken the effort to pack quite a lot of detail inside the small fuselage. In addition to the cockpit you get full intake trunking, a detailed engine section (for those who wish to display the side access doors open) and of course the engine exhaust and nozzle.

The original A-4M gun sight, just one generation beyond the WW2-era designs, lacked radar capabilities to calculate "lead"—the distance ahead of a moving target where a pilot should aim. Instead, it featured aiming circles to help estimate this lead. While this method was not ideal, it was an improvement over having no guidance at all.

The main cockpit tub (and nose gear bay) fit neatly into the starboard fuselage half. As can be seen from the intake section behind, Magic Factory provides solid alignment slots for all the interior parts to ensure everything goes (and stays) where it's meant to.

The engine exhaust is made up of three sections, each crafted as one-piece molds without any need for those annoying longitudinal seams. After assembly, much of the interior is hidden, so I usually leave it painted black. For some subtle brown staining on the nozzle, I applied a light dusting of Europe Earth Pigment Powder (A.MIG-3004) and set it with a few drops of AK Pigment Fixer (AK048). I've been increasingly using pigment powders in my aircraft builds because I appreciate the realistic, scaled texture they create.

The A-4M Skyhawk was equipped with the Pratt & Whitney J52-P-408A engine, a significant upgrade over earlier versions of the J52. This newer model delivered a 20% boost in thrust, providing enhanced performance and greater power for the aircraft. Remarkably, this improvement in thrust did not come with a corresponding increase in fuel consumption, meaning the A-4M could enjoy better performance without sacrificing operational efficiency or range. This made the engine upgrade particularly valuable, as it allowed for greater agility and speed while maintaining the fuel economy of previous models.

Magic Factory includes just enough engine detail to be seen through the access doors on each side of the fuselage. If you plan to keep the doors closed, painting this section isn’t necessary, though I recommend installing it regardless, as it adds structural rigidity to the fuselage. The kit offers minimal paint guidance for this area, so I relied on reference photos to make informed decisions about the color scheme. Even though it's a small part of the build, adding this internal detail can enhance the model's realism if the access doors are left open.

With the four main sub-assemblies—cockpit, intakes, engine, and exhaust—fully assembled, it's time to fit them into the fuselage. Magic Factory has designed this step to be incredibly straightforward, thanks to well-engineered alignment pins and slots that ensure precise positioning for each component. The fit is so well executed that it's practically foolproof, making assembly a breeze even for less experienced modelers. The parts click together securely, leaving little room for error, which greatly enhances both the ease and accuracy of the build.

Each sub-assembly snaps neatly into place, requiring only a minimal amount of glue to secure. I was initially doubtful about how much of the engine's interior would actually be visible through the access hatch, but I was pleasantly surprised—quite a lot of detail can be seen. This makes the extra effort of painting and detailing the engine well worth it, as it significantly enhances the model’s realism when viewed through the open hatch. The attention to detail really pays off here, adding depth and interest to the overall build.

With all the internals sorted it's time to join the fuselage halves. This was trouble free and as normal held the parts together firmly with one hand while I worked my way along the seam applying Tamiya Extra Thin liquid cement.

Air intakes can sometimes be challenging, requiring decisions regarding when the internals are best to be painted to minimise issues during assembly. However, Magic Factory have designed their intakes well, allowing a hassle-free fit and ease of pre-painting.

As the parts breakdown allowed it, I opted to paint the intake interior prior to assembly. The multi-part intake skin and trunking could have led to plenty of fit problems but once again the MF parts all slotted firmly into place with little or no issues regarding gaps and alignment. As you can see I also took the opportunity to paint the fuselage under the splitter plate and intake lip prior to installing the intakes.

As this is a 2-in-1 kit, you need to be regularly making decisions on which step(s) are approproiate for your chosen variant. As I knew that I would be building an "Early" A-4M the appropriate cockpit shroud parts were used.

Magic Factory provide the HUD reflector glass as a clear part, and whilst it's probably considerably over-scale, I chose to use it rather than fabricate a new piece from clear acetate. The shroud was painting in Tamiya LP-65 Rubber Black as I find this color to be a good scale match to most all "black" parts on 1:48 models.

It was now time to move onto the wings and before we get too far it's important to remember to drill out (from the inside) the holes you will need for your selected loadout and variant (early or late). For the early option you need to drill out four holes for the forward transmitting ALQ-51 antennas which were located on either side of the nose landing gear well. For an interesting explanation of the various Early ECM Antennas used on the Skyhawk check out Tommy Thomason's page on his excellent site Tailhook Topics.

The load-out for my chosen scheme is very simple with only the two 150 gallon drop tanks fitted. If you zoom in you can also just see the ALQ-51 transmitter antenna mounts under the port cannon.

One part of the design of this kit I was extra impressed with was the multi-part layout of the main wheel wells. Magic Factory has engineered the gear bays as drop in parts with the roof of the wells being separate. This seems like a simple idea but is so convenient, especially for painting before assembly of the fiddly piping and cabling. Before joining the top and bottom wings you also need to decide what configuration you will be using for the landing flaps and spoilers, both located on the inboard trailing edges of the wings. Magic Factory allow for both open or closed options and allow you cut out slots in the wing to support your layout.

To my eye the level of detail included on the plastic parts was more than adequate for 1:48. Thankfully most of the reference photos of A-4 wheel bays showed all the parts painted in white, which makes detail painting so much easier.

Once the wheel bays are slotted into place the result is very convincing and only the keenest of super-detailers would feel the need to add more.

Once you complete all the wing interior work it's time to glue them together and prepare for mounting to the fuselage. Don't forget to cut out the correct slots for the spoiler and flap positions as trying to do this after the fact will be far more difficult.

As usual, my preparation for this build included exploring online reviews and comments about Magic Factory's kit and in particular their decision to include extensive surface rivet details on the kit’s wings and fuselage. Initially unsure about the rivets, I decided to investigate further using reference photos of the real aircraft. Finding high-quality close-ups of Skyhawk surfaces proved challenging, but one particularly useful resource was Calum Gibson’s excellent set of RNZAF A-4K Skyhawk photos. After analyzing numerous images, I concluded that the kit’s rivets were both oversized and spaced too far apart, resulting in an unrealistic appearance. Leaving them as-is would have been visually distracting on the finished model.

Having decided to remove the majority of the kit supplied surface rivets I set about filling them. After some testing I settled on Extra Thin Super (CA) glue from VMS Supplies. I'd say that any extra thin CA would work, I just happened to have an open bottle of their excellent VMS Flexy 5K Thin glue. This was applied using the tip of some 0.25mm copper wire. I found that the extra thin glue worked best as it was thin enough to flow into the tiny rivets and fill them up. Thicker CA glue or normal plastic putty is too thick to consistently go into the rivet holes leading to many failed or part filled rivets which then needed further attention.

Once the CA glue was dry (say an hour), it was sanding smooth using 600 grade wet n dry abrasive. Care was needed to avoid the delicate vortex generators. Once I was happy with the result I decided to apply a small subset of the remove rivets with my Galaxy 0.75mm Rivet wheel do see if this improved the look. Under a coat of grey primer the result of this work could be appreciated and I was satisfied with the outcome.

A useful before/after comparison of the two wings gave me the confidence to continue as I was happy that the extra work this involved was well worth it.

A study of the A-4K fuselage showed that once again very little of the surface fastener (huck bolts) detail was visible on the real aircraft. Extremely faint lines of fasteners can just be seen in the right light. This gave me the confidence to look at removing them from the 1:48 model.

As can be seen from these "before" photos, the vertical rows of rivets provided on the kit are overscale both in size and spacing. I would first have to fill and sand them smooth and then decide if I wanted to replace any with the riveting wheel.

Once I have filled and primed the fuselage I decided that I would NOT re-apply any of the inter panel rivets as these would be too distracting in 1:48, especially under the high contrast "black and white" paint scheme I had in mind. Grey primer was once again used to test my work and I was pleased that the extra thin super glue had worked reliably to fill and conceal the old rivets.

The vertical tail received the same treatment. Rivets that ran adjacent to the panel lines were left alone as I think these added, rather than detracted, from the overall look of the model.

The A-4M Skyhawk was fitted with 2 x US MK12 20mm cannon, in the wing roots, each with a 400 round capacity. Certain aircraft had no guns installed (eg Blue Angels and Aggressors) and Magic Factory include an alternate set of wing roots with faired over holes to cater for this.

The Skyhawk’s two ammo drums were housed in the center fuselage, but due to the limited width, they couldn’t be positioned side by side. Instead, they were installed one behind the other. As a result, the port cannon had to be placed further back, which explains why its barrel appears shorter compared to the right gun.

Magic Factory failed to consider this when designing their kit and therefore incorrectly provide both barrels as the same length. Quickboost have released set #49141 1:48 A-4M Skyhawk Correct Gun Barrels for Magic Factory which provides a pair of new barrel tips of the correct length.

The external tail and "sugar scoop" are installed next and these will be finished in natural metal. Parts U18 and U19 are rear facing antennas for the ECM suite (more on this shortly).

The A-4M Skyhawk was powered by the Pratt & Whitney J52-P-408 turbojet engine, which produced 11,200 lbf (49.8 kN) of thrust. This was an upgraded version of the J52 engine used in earlier Skyhawk models, providing improved performance and reliability. From a modelling perspective very little of the actual engine exhaust can be seen, however all external protective bare metal panels and "sugar scoop" are quite prominent.

Unfortunately the fit of the tail cone (U66) was not a smooth transition to the rear fuselage, with a noticeable step present. In fairness this could have been as a result of my sanding work on the rear fuselage to remove the rivets. Regardless, I needed to use some filler to remove the step and rescribe. For this I decided to test out a new Black "Flexi" super glue product that I had ordered from Amazon. By all reports the Starbond Black Medium-Thick CA Glue works well for not only gluing but filling as well. It contains a rubberising component that slows the curing of the CA glue and means that even when cured it does not become super hard (like normal CA glue). This means it's far easier to sand and blend.

The "sugar scoop" likewise was not a good fit and received the same treatment with the Black CA. As hoped, the Starbond glue worked very well and scribed nicely. I'll definitely be adding this to my standard glue toolbox from now on.

One final close-up shot of the finished tail. It took a bit more work to correct the mismatched parts but as normal this effort is well worth it.

Before finishing of the tail section completely I needed to attach the ECM antenna's. Looking at period photos of BuNo. 158148, it was obvious that this very early A-4M still had the smaller APR-25 antenna's fitted.

Despite BuNo. 158148 being an out-of-the-box scheme option, Magic Factory do NOT provide these early style of antennas so I raided one of my Hasegawa kits (a Blue Angel boxing) for the right parts. Thankfully these fitted nicely to the Magic Factory tail and I was spared from having to scratch-build them.

The A-4 featured automatic leading-edge slats, which were a key part of its aerodynamic design. These slats are passively deployed, meaning they extend and retract without hydraulic or pilot input, relying instead on aerodynamic forces and gravity.

• The slats are spring-loaded in the retracted position but are free to move
• At low airspeeds or high angles of attack, the reduced aerodynamic pressure allows gravity and airflow to extend the slats, improving lift and preventing stalls.
• At higher speeds, the increased air pressure pushes the slats back into the retracted position, reducing drag.

When parked on the ground, the A-4 Skyhawk’s leading-edge slats are typically fully extended. However, there are exceptions, such as the A-4F used by the Blue Angels display team, where the slats were locked shut. Magic Factory has done an outstanding job not only in replicating the movable slats but also in accurately shaping the fixed leading edge of the wing. On the real A-4, this section features a smooth, continuous curve from the tip to the top of the wing, without any step. Many model manufacturers, including Hasegawa, mistakenly mold a recessed step to accommodate the slat’s trailing edge when retracted. Magic Factory avoided this error, ensuring a correctly contoured and seamless wing transition.

The A-4 Skyhawk featured an all-moving tailplane, also known as a stabilator. Unlike traditional aircraft that use a fixed horizontal stabilizer with separate elevators for pitch control, the Skyhawk's entire horizontal tail surface was able to pivot (for a limited range) as a single unit. In addition the separate elevators could also move independently to provide extra authority when needed. This design choice contributed to the A-4's reputation as a highly maneuverable, pilot-friendly attack aircraft, well-suited for both carrier operations and close-air support missions.

As far as I know, no other kit manufacturer has attempted to model a movable stabilator on a Skyhawk. Magic Factory has approached this cleverly by designing a pivot point that utilizes a poly-cap, housed inside the vertical tail, allowing the horizontal stabilizers to be securely mounted while remaining adjustable.

The horizontal tail (with separate elevators) are designed to mount to the movable stabilator mounts. For my build I glued the horizontal tails to parts E9 and E31 and left them off, to assist with painting, until final assembly.

One of the key airframe differences between early and late A-4M variants was the design of the vertical tail, including the rudder and the ECM fairing (commonly referred to as the "hotdog") at the top. The early A-4M, which I was modeling, featured a tail layout similar to the A-4F and earlier variants. As part this 2-in-1 kit, Magic Factory include parts to build either option.

The completed tail section showing the movable stabilator and early vertical tail (with no hotdog). I continue to be impressed with the engineering of this kit and the extra effort Magic Factory have made on details such as these.

The A-4M featured a distinctive avionics hump along the upper fuselage, just behind the cockpit. This modification was introduced to house upgraded avionics and electronic warfare systems, enhancing the aircraft’s combat capabilities. The avionics hump first appeared on the A-4F Skyhawk and was later incorporated into the A-4M and export variants like the Israeli A-4N. Despite the added weight, the A-4M’s more powerful J52-P-408 engine compensated for any performance losses, maintaining the Skyhawk’s reputation as a nimble and effective light attack aircraft.

Magic Factory has accounted for the subtle differences between early and late A-4M variants by providing options for the varying styles and positions of antennas found along the centerline of the avionics hump.

After being impressed with my first use of Black CA as a filler, I decided to test its effectiveness as both an adhesive and a filler. Having encountered persistent "ghost seams" on some recent builds, I wanted to prevent this issue on the highly visible centerline seam of the avionics hump. As a fan of VMS Supplies products, I ordered a bottle of their Flexy 5K Black CA and used it to assemble the hump. The rubberized CA has a relatively long curing time, which worked to my advantage, allowing me ample time to ensure proper alignment of the parts.

Once the hump was ready, I attached it to the fuselage using a few drops of Tamiya Extra-Thin Liquid styrene cement. After it had fully dried, I filled the small gap between the two with Milliput epoxy putty, which is excellent for tricky filling tasks thanks to its easy water-based cleanup.

While Magic Factory provides full options for open or closed wing spoilers and flaps, I chose to keep the upper wing spoilers closed and the lower wing landing flaps open. This required opening the correct holes in the rear of the fixed wing trailing edge and trimming off the unnecessary tabs on the flaps and spoilers. Be sure to double- and triple-check the required holes before making any cuts!

From my research, it appears there is quite a bit of variation in the colors used for the interiors of the open flaps. Some depict them entirely red, others show a mix of half red and half grey, and some are entirely grey. I chose to go with all red, as I felt it would add a vibrant splash of color to balance out the otherwise monotone black and white paint scheme.

By this stage in the assembly, I began to really appreciate the attention to detail Magic Factory had put into their kit. Not many manufacturers would go the extra mile to include parts that accurately depict deflected ailerons, but here we had exactly that. While it’s interesting to show deflected ailerons on a parked aircraft, it’s not something you typically see. As someone who also enjoys building models in flight, this feature is a very welcome addition from Magic Factory.

The wingtip navigation and formation lights of the Skyhawk are provided as a single clear piece, which makes assembly super easy. After spraying the navigation lights (clear red for port and clear green for starboard) they were masked using a mix of Tamiya tape for the hard edges and liquid Mr. Masking Sol for the center sections.

The A-4M was equipped with a drag chute for short-field landings on land bases. The chute was stored in a fairing beneath the tail, just behind the arrestor hook. Magic Factory includes the fairing and removable cap as parts U40 and U8. The arrestor hook, used for carrier operations, is provided with a forward hinge by Magic Factory, allowing it to be displayed either in the up or down position.

Being a long and thin part, I managed to accidentally break the arrestor hook while masking it to paint the alternating (barber pole) stripes. Instead of attempting to repair the plastic part, I decided to replace it with a piece of 0.83mm brass rod, which was both straighter and stronger.

The A-4 Skyhawk featured a Ram Air Turbine (RAT), a small, self-contained power source designed to provide emergency power to critical systems in case of an engine failure or electrical power loss. The RAT is a compact device that uses airflow from the aircraft’s forward motion to generate power.

Magic Factory include the parts for the RAT to be displayed open (deployed) or closed.

As much as I like to see open panels on my models, in the case of the RAT it is really only open when undergoing maintenance and that was not the look I was going with this build. I therefore glued the one-piece closed panel (U56) in place and filled the joins with White (Super Fine) Milliput and smoothed with a water moistened cotton bud (q-tip)

The Magic Factory undercarriage, main and nose, is very nicely detailed. In the plus column we have adjustable nose wheel steering position and separate nose wheel (compared to the Hasegawa molded in nose wheel this is very welcome). In the minus column we have the use of rubber tires, which I have never been a fan of and had hoped that kit manufacturers had moved on from this trend, but here we are.

About the time I was considering how best to deal with the rubber tires, John from Matters of Scale released a brand new 3D set of main and nose wheels designed specifically for the Magic Factory kit. Perfect timing and even better they were available as a digital download for you to print yourself. The download includes STL files for two types of main wheel (treaded and slick) and nose wheel.

After printing them on my Elegoo Saturn 2 printer, I did a side by side comparison with the kit supplied rubber tires. As expected the 3D printed parts have far finer detail, including a Goodyear logo on the sidewalls.

It occurred to me that now I had the printable file that I could also use these wheels on my Hasegawa kits, for both 1:48 and probably 1:32 as its super easy to scale up (or down) STL files with no loss of detail. I was a bit surprised to find that the kit supplied Hasegawa main wheel was noticeably smaller that the Magic Factory items. According to information I found on the internet the Hasegawa wheel is a tad too small and the Magic Factory is a tad too large, so perhaps when I 3D print more I can adjust the Matters of Scale wheels down a bit. These are just some of the many benefits of being able to control the printing of these digital parts yourself at home. To me it's the future.

A dry test fit of the landing gear struts and new 3D printed wheels revealed everything was good to go. Magic Factory has provided deep slotted holes to house the main struts and this ensures they are perfectly vertical and solid.

Much like the gear bays, the Magic Factory gear doors are very finely detailed. Each main gear bay has two doors, whilst the nose bay has a long single door.

To ensure perfect alignment, Magic Factory have designed the door hinges with accurate mounting holes inside the gear wells. Whilst most kits come with something like this, in the case of Magic Factory it actually works and the doors don't flop around when seated. At this point I've started some of the painting with the chrome section of the oleo stut being painted (ready to be masked) and the interior of the doors being primed in black. The 3D resin wheel has received a coat of Rubber Black.

Being designed for carrier operations, the A-4 was fitted with "Carrier Approach Lights" in the leading edge of the port wing. These are three small angle-of-attack indexer lights which were visible on approach by the LSO (Landing Signal Officer) standing at the end of the deck. The lights indicated Amber - on speed, Green - fast, Red - slow. This information was relayed back to the pilot by the LSO so he could correct his approach. Magic Factory provide not only the clear cover which forms part of the wing leading edge (seen here masked over) but also the three internal lights.

The starboard main gear door had a single landing light fitted. Magic Factory provide the light as a clear piece and to simulate the rear of the light I painted it using Alclad Chrome. This would be visible through the front of the clean lens once painting was finished. I also add some copper wire (0.25mm) to simulate the power cable for the landing light.

As mentioned earlier, Magic Factory have provided the option to display the engine maintenance access doors in the open position. I believe they are the only manufacturer to offer this option out-of-the-box and I wanted to take advantage of this because its common to see these doors open when Skyhawks are parked on the line. Likewise the option to display the airbrakes open is also included.

The A-4's airbrake actuating strut was hydraulically operated, and it’s rare to see photos of Skyhawks on the ground with the airbrake doors fully extended. Typically, once hydraulic pressure is lost after engine shutdown, the doors droop slightly due to gravity rather than remain fully closed.

Magic Factory provides the struts in the fully open position, but modifying them for a more realistic, partially open look is a simple task - just shorten the struts accordingly.

For painting, the most common color scheme observed was red for the inside of the airbrake and gray for the well and body of the strut.

Magic Factory has gone all out with the nose section of their A-4M kit, including every possible access panel that opens and closes. While this level of detail is impressive, it can make things a bit tricky if you prefer to build the model with all the panels closed, as fitting everything neatly together can become a challenge and the end result is less than stellar.

For this build, I wasn’t interested in displaying the nose panels open. Up to this point, I had been impressed by the precision fit of the kit’s parts, which showed a high level of engineering. Unfortunately, that wasn’t the case when closing up the side access panels on the nose. Large, unsightly gaps appeared around all three doors, and even the fit between the two main nose sections was less than ideal. This was genuinely surprising, given how well the rest of the kit had come together.

My initial plan was to reluctantly fill all the panel lines and try and re-scribe them to get a more in-scale realistic look. Thankfully that turned out not to be necessary.

Before I got too deep into my re-scribing plans, Matters of Scale once again came to the rescue with plans to produce a new one-piece nose, covering all three possible configurations for the Magic Factory A-4M. I was fortunate to collaborate with John on the development of these noses, assisting with test prints and fitting them to the kit. Within a few weeks, he had completed the designs, and—just like with the wheels—made them available for digital download and home 3D printing.

The surface detail quality on the 3D-printed noses was vastly superior to the closed-up kit parts, making me wonder why Magic Factory hadn’t included one-piece closed nose options in the kit. Perhaps it was a cost-saving decision, but I believe most modelers would gladly pay a little extra to have this critical part of the aircraft look right straight out of the box.

I'm happy to say that after much testing and tweaking, John and I managed to get the 3D nose to fit close to perfectly with the kit fuselage. For my 3D prints I used my Elegoo Saturn 2 (8K) and Siraya-Tech Fast Navy Grey resin.

To allow for nose weight, the 3D printed noses are hollow (just like the plastic parts). These days I use 2mm lead shot as my weight and secure it in place using two part epoxy glue.

The resin nose was attached to the forward fuselage using extra-thin super glue, and here it is under a coat of primer. Notably, John chose not to replicate the kit’s rivet detail on the nose, as we both agreed that Magic Factory’s rendition was overly pronounced.

Depending on the specific aircraft you're modeling, the pylon configuration and ordnance loadout will need to be planned accordingly. My chosen subject had a simple setup with a 150-gallon drop tank on each wing and no other stations installed. The provided sway braces are well-detailed, and the pylons fit securely into the pre-drilled mounting holes, ensuring a solid connection to the wings

One small upgrade I recommend is replacing the in-flight refueling probe. The kit-provided probe is decent, but it lacks the sharpness and detail that can be achieved with a 3D-printed or metal replacement. I had a spare couple of the Orange Hobby A48-015 1/48 Nato Standard Refueling Probe, so I removed the kit probe and installed the metal version instead. Aside from its superior detail, the metal probe also has the advantage of already being silver, eliminating the need for painting.

Unlike Hasegawa, Magic Factory includes a comprehensive selection of weapons suitable for the A-4 family. The kit comes with a pair of 150-gallon drop tanks, LAU-10/A ZUNI rocket pods, and a generous supply of Mk.82 500lb bombs, along with retarded "Snakeye" Mk.81 250lb bombs.

The join on the tail of the drop tanks wasn’t as clean as I wanted, so I used my new go-to filler, Black CA, to smooth it out before rescribing. The tanks themselves feature raised seams, just like the real ones, but these can be tricky when they cross join lines that require sanding. To fix this, I removed the affected section of the raised seam, sanded the area smooth, and then recreated the seam using stretched sprue. This method ensures that the raised panel lines blend seamlessly with the rest of the model.

The final major step in the model's construction is the canopy, and it was yet another aspect of the kit that really impressed me. Magic Factory includes the internal canopy framing as a separate part, complete with the three rear-view mirrors and detailed canopy latching mechanisms. The canopy is designed to be displayed either open or closed, with alternate hinge and actuator parts provided to accommodate your chosen configuration.

Canopy masks are becoming almost a standard feature in new kits nowadays. Magic Factory includes a set of exterior-only masks for the main canopy and windshield, as well as for the anti-glare panel on the nose, specifically designed for the Diamondbacks paint scheme. Additionally, the kit provides self-adhesive mirrors for the canopy, which are truly excellent. I really wish someone would release these as separate upgrade parts for modern jet aircraft, they would sell like hot cakes I'm sure.

Thankfully, the fit of the canopy masks is excellent. Since I planned to display the canopy open, I needed to mask and paint the interior framing as well. After applying the exterior masks, I scanned the masking sheet and traced the shapes using Inkscape software. This allowed me to generate cutting instructions for my Silhouette Portrait 3 cutter, and I was able to create precise new interior masks as well.

With everything assembled and masked, a coat of Tamiya Rubber Black was applied to the canopy framing, both inside and out. The self-adhesive mirrors were attached and these really are super simple and look the part.

One final addition I incorporated was the Quickboost 49142 A-4M Skyhawk Detail Upgrade set, a 3D-printed aftermarket kit designed to enhance many of the smaller plastic components from the original model. It offers sharper, more detailed replacements for parts like pitot tubes, probes, antennae, and vents. The set also includes a far more refined RAT (Ram Air Turbine) propeller, perfect if you choose to display it in the deployed position.

After all the construction, masking and prep work completed, it's now time to load up the airbrush and bring the model to life with colors, weathering and final detailing. Now the fun part begins :)

I had more or less made up my mind about the paint scheme the moment I got my hands on the box. With only two options provided by Magic Factory, the decision was straightforward—and true to form, I chose the road less traveled. I’d already seen quite a few builds finished in the Diamondbacks’ grey livery, so naturally, I went in the opposite direction. At first glance, a black-and-white two-tone scheme doesn’t seem particularly demanding, but as I soon discovered, working with two such contrasting colors leaves little room for error.

As with any build, research and reference material beyond the kit instructions proved invaluable. Fortunately, I was able to find a number of high-quality photos of the actual aircraft online, taken from various angles—which made a big difference. I found myself returning to these images repeatedly throughout the masking and painting process, double- and triple-checking details to ensure the finish was as realistic as possible.

To start things off, I applied a base coat of Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black as a primer. This was the first time I’d actually seen the results of all the surface work, particularly the removal of the recessed rivets, under a layer of paint.

On closer inspection of the rivet removal work, I was relieved to see that the surface was clean and smooth, with no need for any final touch-ups or repairs.

The first color applied was Gaia Color 021 Semi-Gloss White, sprayed directly over the black primer. I built up the opacity gradually and somewhat irregularly across the relevant sections of the airframe. The semi-gloss finish was a deliberate choice, as reference photos showed the real aircraft had a noticeable sheen, and I’ve found that semi-gloss paints and clear coats replicate this well at scale. I used Gaia Color for both the white and black, as it's one of the few ranges where “semi-gloss” hits the mark—neither too flat nor overly glossy.

This paint scheme relies heavily on precise masking. It requires long, straight, consistently sharp lines, with only a few tight-radius curves—mostly around the nose. For those tighter curves, I opted for vinyl tape, as its flexibility allows it to stretch smoothly and maintain a clean, even arc. The smaller the tape, the tighter the curve that can be easily achieved and for this reason I went with Vallejo Flexible 1mm Vinyl tape (T07007).

For the long, straight sections, I switched to traditional Tamiya tape, using the 3mm width. I prefer this size as it holds its shape well over extended runs while still being thin enough to conform smoothly to surface variations along the way.

Small sections of Tamiya 10mm and 6mm tape were used to fill in the gaps behind the edging tape, providing protection against overspray. Although this process is very time-consuming, it’s crucial to do it correctly—correcting even a minor overspray issue requires significant time and effort.

After completing and verifying the masking, a coat of Gaia Color 022 Semi-Gloss Black was applied. When thinned with Mr. Color Leveling Thinners, the Gaia Color lacquers atomize exceptionally well, producing a smooth, uniform finish with a refined semi-gloss sheen.

A uniform, monotone finish is something I consistently aim to avoid in my aircraft models, particularly with challenging colors like black and white, which are inherently difficult to modulate convincingly. In this instance, reference photos clearly indicate that the Air Test Center aircraft was well-maintained and relatively clean. Taking that into account, I chose to selectively mask several access panels within the black-painted areas and sprayed them with Tamiya LP-65 Rubber Black. This subtle variation was intended to introduce visual interest and tonal depth, helping to break up the uniformity of the overall black finish.

Although the masking was largely effective, minor instances of overspray and underspray are to be expected. As such, several iterations of reverse masking were required along the black and white demarcation lines to ensure all transitions were clean and sharply defined.

The avionics hump and nose required the most cleanup effort, but the extra time spent was well worth it to achieve clean, sharp lines. Fundamental skills like precise paint masking are essential to maintain, and projects like this really highlight the value of keeping those techniques sharp.

Masking the lower surface proved to be considerably easier, thanks to its predominantly flat contours. This simplified the process compared to the more complex upper areas. For sections that did present minor challenges—such as the area around the drag chute housing on the tail—I again relied on 1mm vinyl tape and Tamiya’s 2mm masking tape. These tapes were particularly effective in conforming to tight curves and recessed details, allowing for clean, precise masking even in the trickier spots.

With the main painting complete, it was time to move on to the decals. After carefully comparing the markings provided by Magic Factory with reference photos of the real aircraft, I identified several areas that could be improved. The first issue was the red intake warning. Images of 8148 during its time at NATC clearly show that the red intake lip was quite narrow and did not extend forward to cover the splitter plate

Magic Factory supplies only the trailing triangle portion of the intake warning markings as a decal, leaving the modeler to mask and paint the main lip section. This often results in color mismatches between the painted area and the decal and is therefore something I prefer to avoid if practical. Additionally, the transition between the painted lip and the decal’s triangle appeared too sharp compared to the more blended look seen on the actual aircraft. As a result, I decided to find a better solution.

Using a high-resolution scan of the kit decals, I imported the image into Inkscape and created a blue guideline to design a paint mask. This mask incorporated the more pronounced curve at the corner and included an extended section, allowing me to use a single mask for both the top of the intake lip and the adjacent area. When it eventually came time for decaling the small white "Danger" arrow in the center of the triangle would be cut out and applied over the top of the painted triangle as this detail is too small to be masked.

The intake was just one of several markings for which I created custom paint masks using Inkscape. While I could have used the Cartograf-printed kit decals for the BuNo and other lettering, I opted to paint them instead, as each consists of a single color and benefits from the cleaner finish masking provides. The “bird” logo on the top of the vertical tail presented an interesting issue with the Magic Factory decals. On the real aircraft, the bird’s beak faces forward on both sides of the tail, requiring two mirrored versions of the graphic to achieve proper orientation. However, Magic Factory overlooked this detail. They simply duplicated the black starboard-side bird decal and recolored it white for the port side—without mirroring it—resulting in the beak facing backward, which is incorrect.

The bird decal was also oversized, and to make it fit, you would have to move it too far down the tail—well below its correct position. Fortunately, this was an easy fix once I created my own mask; I simply scaled the vector graphic down to the appropriate size for 1/48 scale. While details like this might seem minor or not worth the trouble, it’s exactly this kind of attention to detail that I find so rewarding in the hobby. Solving these small challenges is one of the aspects I enjoy most.

With the masks cut and ready, it was time to position them on the intake. I’ve found that it’s often easier to start by laying down the part of the mask that represents the marking itself—similar to how you would apply a decal. This approach allows me to focus on getting the alignment and placement just right before committing to the actual masking portion that matters for painting. By using the marking as a visual guide, I can ensure everything is correctly oriented and symmetrical, especially on curved or angled surfaces like the intake lip. It takes a bit more time up front, but it pays off in accuracy and overall finish.

Once the main mask is applied, the inner section can be removed and discarded. Masking the interior of the intake proved to be quite challenging and time-consuming, particularly when trying to keep the tape lines parallel. As with previous masking steps, the most effective approach was to use thin strips of tape to outline the edges, then fill in the remaining areas with small squares. This method continues to be the most reliable way to handle complex masking jobs like this.

It's well known that colors like red and yellow perform best when applied over an appropriate base coat. For red, I usually prefer white as the foundation—especially in cases like this, where I needed to cover a black section. Without a solid base, the red would appear uneven and washed out. You can use a dedicated primer, but in this instance, I simply used the same white paint as I applied to the rest of the airframe, which worked perfectly well.

With all the prep work complete, only a couple of light coats of MRP-002 Insignia Red were needed over the white base to achieve a smooth, vibrant finish. One of the main reasons I prefer MRP acrylic lacquers is their excellent coverage. They lay down very evenly and often provide full opacity in just one or two coats. This not only saves time but also helps minimize paint build-up, which can create an unsightly ridge or visible edge—especially problematic when masking complex markings. The fine atomization and smooth flow of MRP paints make them ideal for precision work like this, where clean lines and subtle transitions are key to a realistic finish.

Once the masking was removed, only a few minor touch-ups were needed—nothing unexpected, and easily corrected. Overall, this stage of the painting process went very smoothly. Even this small addition of red brought a welcome splash of color to the otherwise monochrome surface, adding visual interest and breaking up the uniformity. It was a subtle but satisfying transformation, and for the first time, I started to see the model truly come to life. That pop of red hinted at the character and realism I was aiming for, making all the meticulous prep work feel worthwhile.

With the challenging intake masking out of the way, I moved on to the tail markings, opting to use my custom-made masks instead of the kit decals. Since the tail surface is essentially flat, Oramask 810 vinyl was the perfect choice—its low-tack adhesive and crisp cutting properties make it ideal for producing sharp, clean edges when cut with my Silhouette Portrait 3. Accurate alignment is crucial at this stage, so I took my time and used the model’s panel lines as reference points to ensure the masks—and the resulting painted markings—were straight and properly positioned. This extra care makes a noticeable difference in the final presentation.

The modex numbers on the nose were also masked and scaled down by approximately 60% from the size of the kit decals, as reference photos revealed the supplied decals were slightly oversized. One of the great advantages of creating custom masks is the ability to fine-tune details like this for greater accuracy. Being able to adjust the size, placement, and proportions to match the real aircraft adds a level of precision that decals alone often can't provide. While it does take more time and effort, I believe the results more than justify the extra work.

To prevent overspray, I once again used sections of Tamiya tape to backfill around the edges of the mask. This method remains one of the most reliable for protecting surrounding surfaces during intricate paintwork. The most rewarding part of the process, however, is always the moment when the masks come off—revealing crisp, clean markings underneath. There’s something uniquely satisfying about seeing all the careful preparation pay off in the form of sharp lines and accurate detailing. It’s one of those moments that really makes the extra effort feel worthwhile.

This progress shot captures two key milestones in the paintwork: the completed intake warning marking and the starboard-side nose modex. The red intake lip and danger triangle have been sharply defined using custom-cut masks, resulting in clean edges and accurate proportions that better reflect the appearance of the real aircraft. The modex number "148" on the nose has also been precisely applied in white, scaled down from the kit decal size to better match reference photos. Together, these elements break up the stark black-and-white paint scheme, adding character and authenticity as the model starts to take on the unmistakable look of a real operational jet.

Basic masks were also made for the lower chaff/flare dispensers. Although these could have been applied manually, the computer and cutter made it much easier to achieve the precise rounded corners. Since I wanted to show the flaps in the down position, I painted the interior red, which is typical for US Navy aircraft

The only painting tasks left were the interiors of the wheel wells and the upper wing walkways. Because these areas featured very simple shapes, creating masks offered no real advantage. In fact, hand masking proved to be more efficient and practical for these sections. This approach allowed for quicker application and better control over the paint edges without the added complexity of designing and cutting precise masks.

With the painting now finished, I took the usual extra time to thoroughly inspect the model for any areas that might require touch-ups or corrections. Addressing these issues at this stage is much more convenient and efficient than discovering them later during the final assembly, where reworking could become more difficult or even risk damaging delicate parts. This careful review helps ensure a cleaner, more polished result once construction is complete.

When you’re fortunate enough to have high-quality reference photos of your chosen subject, it’s well worth investing the time to study them closely. Paying attention to the specific details of the aircraft allows you to replicate them more accurately in your model. While I chose not to open all the nose access panels included by Magic Factory, I did want to display the engine maintenance doors open and position the airbrakes slightly ajar—both common sights on Skyhawks parked on the ramp after shutdown. Magic Factory includes the necessary parts to open the airbrakes, but the actuating struts are molded only in the fully extended position. Fortunately, it's a simple modification to shorten the struts, allowing the doors to be posed partially open, just a few inches, as seen on the actual aircraft.

Physically opening the airbrakes is actually the easy part—the real challenge lies in dealing with the national insignia (the stars and bars), which sits directly over the airbrake. Some kit and decal manufacturers help modelers out by supplying the insignia as a two-part decal to accommodate open airbrakes, but unfortunately, Magic Factory didn’t include this option. In the past, I’ve tackled this by applying the decal in one piece and carefully slicing it with a sharp blade while it was still wet on the model. This method is risky and can often produce uneven or damaged results. For this build, I opted for a different approach. Using Inkscape, I traced the shape of the insignia and created a cutting template—not for painting, but to accurately trim the decal while it was still on the backing paper. This technique significantly reduces the risk and allows for much cleaner application to the fuselage and separate airbrake parts.

Silhouette Studio, the free software provided for use with Silhouette cutting machines, is where I designed and laid out all the custom masks used for this Skyhawk build. In the image, you can see the complete set of masks I created, covering everything from the chaff/flare dispensers to the national insignia. If you're planning to build a Skyhawk in this scheme and would find the masks helpful, feel free to send me an email—I’m more than happy to share the .studio3 file so you can cut your own set and save time on layout and design.

The first step in creating the templates was to apply the full decal outline directly over the airbrake door area. Using a sharp #11 blade, I carefully trimmed along the edge of the plastic airbrake to precisely match its contour. This process produced a clean, accurate template that I could then lay over the dry decal on the backing sheet. With this template as a guide, I was able to cut the decal safely and precisely, ensuring it would fit perfectly over the airbrake when applied—without the risks associated with trimming decals directly on the model.

With the template ready, it’s time to gently place the vinyl guide over the decal. Using a fresh #11 blade, carefully trace along the edges of the template with light pressure. There’s no need to press hard—our goal is to cut through only the decal film, not the backing paper underneath. A gentle touch is all it takes to achieve a clean cut. Once done, remove the vinyl template, and you'll have a precisely trimmed two-part decal ready for application to the fuselage and airbrake components.

One of the more unique challenges of this particular paint scheme is the presence of a white outline surrounding the national insignia (stars and bars) where it overlaps the black sections of the fuselage. Even though the Magic Factory decals included this border, I chose to add it manually before the insignia decal was applied. To achieve this, I designed a custom mask specifically for this purpose. I masked off the areas where the insignia would sit and sprayed a white base layer onto the black sections—specifically the upper (port side) and lower (starboard side) fuselage. Once the decals are applied over this white base, the result is a clean, crisp white border around the insignia, accurately replicating the look of the real aircraft. This extra step adds a touch of realism and ensures the insignia doesn’t get lost against the darker background.

With the custom masking and painting complete, the white outline is now in place on both the open airbrake and the adjacent fuselage panel. This carefully applied border provides the correct visual separation between the black fuselage and the upcoming national insignia decal, just as seen on the real aircraft. Thanks to the pre-cut decal template and the white base now in place, everything is ready for the decals to be applied with confidence, ensuring a trouble free finish.

Although I used semi-gloss paints and didn’t expect any issues applying the Cartograph decals directly, I still believe it’s worth applying a light gloss clear coat beforehand. This extra step helps ensure optimal adhesion and minimizes the risk of silvering. For this, I prefer Tamiya LP-9 Clear—it's the best-performing gloss coat I’ve used. Once dry, it forms a tough, durable finish and is easy to apply, even when heavily thinned, making it ideal for prepping the surface before decaling.

As expected, the Cartograph kit decals performed flawlessly. All the planning and preparation I put into handling the airbrake area paid off perfectly, with everything coming together just as intended. I’m very pleased with the result and will definitely be using this technique again for similar situations. Where needed, I applied Micro Sol to help the decals conform smoothly to the recessed panel lines and surface details.

Once all the decals had fully set (overnight), I sealed everything with a final light coat of Tamiya LP-9 Clear. This not only protects the decals but I find also helps to blend the edges of the carrier film into the paintwork, giving the markings a much more realistic, painted-on appearance.

One of my favorite stages in any build is applying a wash over the panel lines and rivet detail—it’s the moment when the model truly begins to transform from looking like a toy into something that resembles the real aircraft. Given the high-contrast paint scheme on this build, I initially thought I’d need two separate washes to suit the black and white areas. However, after some careful testing (always test first!), I found that a custom-blended medium grey wash—made by mixing Tamiya's Light and Dark Grey Panel Liner enamels—provided the right balance across the entire surface. Thanks to the protective layers of Tamiya LP-9 Clear over the paint and decals, I could apply the wash quite liberally without worry, allowing it to settle beautifully into the recessed details and bring the surface to life.

I usually let the enamel wash dry for about 30 to 60 minutes before removing the excess with white spirits. If you're interested in learning more about this technique, I’ve put together a detailed step-by-step tutorial here: Aircraft Panel Line Washes: A Step-By-Step Guide

The underside of the airframe received the same medium grey wash as the rest of the model, helping to enhance the panel lines and surface detail. I deliberately kept the weathering subtle, as reference photos of this particular Air Test Center jet showed it to be generally clean and well-maintained. However, I did add a bit of additional staining to the wheel wells, as these areas tend to collect grime and hydraulic residue—even on the most meticulously kept aircraft.

My research indicated that the interior of the airbrake wells was typically painted grey, while the inner surface of the airbrake itself—being a movable part—was finished in warning red. Around this stage of the build, I took a moment to reflect on my earlier decision to fill most of the recessed rivets on the kit’s surface. In hindsight, it proved to be the right choice, as the remaining rivet detail now strikes a good balance—adding visual interest without overwhelming the overall appearance of the model.

Although I haven’t highlighted it in detail, rest assured that all the undercarriage doors, struts, and wheels were properly masked and painted as required. One area I continue to find a bit tedious is handling the red borders on the gear doors—masking and painting them is quite time-consuming and can feel a bit clunky. I’ve heard good things about the new AK Real Color Markers, which allow you to apply paint like a pen rather than with a brush. These might be a worthwhile option to explore for future builds, especially for fine detail work like this.

As usual, final assembly focused on attaching all the delicate components to the main airframe. I typically work from the centerline outward, as this minimizes the risk of damaging previously installed parts by reaching over them. I’m pleased to report that everything—gear struts, door hinges, and other fiddly elements like the refueling probe—slotted into place cleanly and securely, with no alignment issues. That kind of fit and precision is especially appreciated at this late stage in the build.

A final semi-gloss clear coat was applied to unify the finish and give the model a subtle, realistic sheen. Once that had cured, all the remaining masks were carefully removed, revealing the final paintwork in full. Overall, I’m very pleased with how the build turned out—especially glad I committed to the challenging black and white Navy Air Test Center scheme, which really gives the model a distinctive presence. What follows are a small selection of photos showcasing the finished aircraft from various angles. For more photos, head over to the Magic Factory A-4M Gallery

As often seems to be the case, this build turned out to be a far more involved project than I initially anticipated. Along the way, I reworked the kit’s surface detail by filling most of the overdone rivets, added a 3D-printed resin nose and wheels from Matters of Scale, and spent time refining my skills with the Silhouette cutter to create custom masks. In the end, I gained much more from this build than just another completed model—it was a valuable learning experience.

There’s a lot to like about Magic Factory’s newly tooled 1/48 Skyhawk. The overall engineering and parts layout mark a clear improvement over the now-aging Hasegawa kit. However, it’s not without its shortcomings. This is the second Magic Factory kit I’ve reviewed, and unfortunately, they still haven’t addressed the issue of scale-appropriate surface riveting and the poor fit of open access panels when you want to close them. I would have preferred to build the model straight from the box without having to fill and smooth out excessive rivet detail on the wings and fuselage—but my modeller’s eye just couldn’t overlook it.

That said, I genuinely hope Magic Factory continues producing new 1/48 aircraft kits. And, as they demonstrated following the release of their F4U-1 Corsair, I trust they’ll continue to listen to feedback from the modelling community—taking on board what worked, and what didn’t. That’s really all we can ask of any new manufacturer as they grow and learn along the way.

I have another one of these kits in my stash, and I fully intend to build it. Yes, I’ll be filling the rivets again (I’m getting pretty good at that now), and I’ll definitely be using more of the excellent one-piece noses and wheels from Matters of Scale. At the end of the day, I think the extra effort is absolutely worth it to take full advantage of all the great features this kit has to offer. I hope you give it a go as well.